The book

The story of both the past and, above all,
the future of denim, through the innovations
and the voices of those who "do" denim


Book preview

Press area/Media area

A detailed press kit is available at the following link, containing:
- press release
- some photos of the book in hi res

» download press kit 35MB [ZIP]

Just call them the "Bluemasters". These are the men and women who have brought innova­tion to denim, be it in production and manufacture, creativity, retailing or communications, rendering the pair of jeans the most iconic, sought-after garment on the planet. From the cotton boll to the catwalk, from dyeing to washing, from the shop window to the mass media, behind all the most high-fashion jeans there usually lurks one of these people.
These are the people, each in their own special way a true master of denim, to whom this book Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim, is dedicated, weaving together some of today's most fascinating stories all of them inspired by the most famous blue fabric on the planet.
Written by Fabiana Giacomotti, fashion guru and head of Fashion and Costume Studies at Rome's Sapienza University, published by the Menabò Group, this volume fulfils the dream of Isko™, shared by Archroma, to create a space in which to delve into the cultural currents, the ebbs and flows that move the world of denim, and this book is that space. Naturally this no encyclopaedia, since it would be impossible for a single volume to cover every last detail of such a tumultuous sector, it should rather been seen as a catalyst.
The book's two hundred large-format pages are divided into two parts. The first is a series of interviews profiling the Bluemasters, presented in alphabetical order, photographed at work in their office, at the work bench, in the laundry or in the laboratory.
The second, more technical part, traces the landmarks in the evolution of denim production, with a special focus on eco-friendly cotton growing and such processes as dyeing, washing and finishing, providing a wealth of useful information and insight into all the backstage work that goes into a pair of jeans.
The book concludes with a reflection on the future relationship between denim and fashion, a marriage made in heaven, forged by inspiration and creative cross-fertilisation.

Written by Fabiana Giacomotti
Preface by Elio Fiorucci
Language English
Publisher Menabò Group
pages 202
cm 29x29
weight: 2kg






Preface by Elio Fiorucci


Maria Erixon Levin - A woman on a mission
François Girbaud - The jeans heretic
Adriano Goldschmied - The irrepressible inventor
Yuji Honzawa, Dr Denim - Tradition unbound
Peter Kim, Ben Taverniti - Cool attitude
Fatih Konukoglu - A deep feel for denim
Claudio Marcolli - A touch of sparkle
Luigi Martelli - The gentleman of denim
José Manuel Martinez Gutierrez - The spirit of a brand
Scott Morrison - Couture allure
Andrea Panconesi - The Brand believer
Renzo Rosso - The snake charmer
Ermanno Scervino - Pure seduction
David Trerotola - Stretching to the future
Vivienne Westwood - Fashion philology
Thomas Winkler - The colour magician





How jeans are made: from raw cotton to the catwalk
Green issues and innovative technologies on the cotton plantation
Spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing
Innovation in denim weaving, technical and creative revolutions Transformation - from fabric to jeans
The rise of man-made fibres
Washing and finishing techniques. The final links in the jeans chain
Denim couture

Afterword. Denim and fashion, the perfect marriage

Author's acknowledgments
Special thanks to
Further reading



Text, research, interviews








Contributing writer


Journalist, author and TV writer, Fabiana Giacomotti has been a correspondent for “Il Mondo”, deputy editor of “Amica” and editor of “MfFashion” and “Fashion Illustrated”. She writes for the Saturday edition of “Il Foglio” and is a columnist for “Sette-Corriere della Sera” and “”. She lectures in Fashion Studies at Rome’s Sapienza University, and still runs a project she helped to create, the first online multimedia platform with features written by students on the fashion world and its culture. In 2012 she curated the exhibition “Trame di Moda. Women and Style at the Venice Film Festival”, at the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Venice. She is currently working on a project about the relationship between TV costumes and the evolution of fashion in Italian social history, with a special focus on the Italian state broadcaster RAI. She has written many books, including “La moda è un romanzo. Stile ed eleganza nei capolavori della letteratura” (Fashion is a Novel. Fashion and Style in Literary Masterpieces) and the guidebook “La Milanese chic. Guida alla città dello stile”, (Milanese Chic. A Guide to the City of Style), now also on sale outside Italy.




Claudia Proietti graduated from Rome’s Sapienza University with a degree in contemporary literature, specialising in journalism. She has been active in politics since the age of 18, acting as press officer for the youth wing of a political party. After university she became involved with the fashion world, concentrating on new talent and the success stories of young pioneers brimming with courage and ethusiasm. She devised and still edits Sapienza Fashion Index, a project that seeks out, focuses on and monitors emerging designers on the Italian scene, hosted on the website





Project conceived by Marco Lucietti
Global Marketing Director Isko,
with the invaluable support of
Albert Llort - Marketing Manager
Special Dyes Archroma

A leading company for denim production at global level, Isko™ is part of SANKO holding. Isko™ is aimed at the top segment of the market and the wide range of innovative textile products and technologies the company produces are able to meet all the demands of the denim industry. Isko™ has offices in 35 countries all over the world.
ISKO is a registered trademark of SANKO TEKSTIL.

Archroma is a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals. The company boasts strong market insight, highly talented people and a long history of material excellence and expertise. Through three businesses: Textile Specialties, Paper Solutions and Emulsion Products, Archroma delivers specialised performance and colour solutions to the textile, paper, adhesives, coatings and construction industries to meet customer needs in their local markets.
Archroma develops technologies that enhance the look and performance of everyday products.


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